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Mark Brashear CEO, Hugo Boss USA |
Metrosexuals may be
passé, but that does
not mean that modern
male retail consumers don’t know how to
shop. They want style and value, something
Hugo Boss’ Chairman and CEO for the Americas
Mark Brashear knows how to deliver. A 30-
year veteran of the retail industry, Brashear’s
mission is to communicate Hugo Boss’ global
brand vision to the markets throughout the
Americas, including Puerto Rico, and keep the
label viable for modern consumers.
“My key responsibility is to listen and understand
our global brand vision and interpret
it in a way that is relevant and feasible
in the local markets that I support, which include
all the Americas,” explains Brashear.
“What that means is that you’ve got to really
have an international, multi-cultural understanding
because, when you are running a
business that really operates in most countries
of the world, communications and language
play a key role in being successful.”
Founded in 1924 in Metzingen, Germany,
Hugo Boss AG is one of the world’s largest
high-end clothing brands, with 6,100 points
of sale in 110 countries. Its retail network
is comprised of 330 company-owned retail
stores and over 1,000 stores owned by franchisees.
Although it is mostly identified as a
men’s label, Hugo Boss also offers womenswear,
which makes 20 percent of the brand’s
business. After a tough 2009, Hugo Boss rebounded
in the first half of 2010, registering
a 14 percent increase in revenue in the
Americas. Overall, Hugo Boss recorded a 7
percent sales increase in the second quarter
of 2010 and a 25 percent increase in retail
sales for the first half of the year.
STYLE SAVVY
Brashear notes one of the company’s
most important objectives is catering to
modern customers, keeping an eye on the
way they are consuming products. That
includes their frequency of shopping and
the amount of money they spend for specific
wardrobe articles.
“Consumers are so much better informed
today, more educated. They are not just
looking for the lower price, they truly understand
the price/value ratio,” Brashear notes.
“I think that’s a change from three or five or
10 years ago. The consumer was a bit more
trusting with the brand. Now the consumer
is in the driver’s seat and he uses that
knowledge as he invests his money.”
The Island’s male retail market is no different,
showing plenty of style and value savvy,
says Brashear. And though Puerto Rico’s
Hugo Boss point-of-sale business does not
make it one of the label’s big sellers, Brashear
acknowledges that local consumers of
the brand are very fashion forward.
“In terms of productivity, in terms of
fashion component, it’s a very forward market
and store for us,” he says. “By that I
mean, if I were to take the average Hugo
Boss store in the United States and look at the mix and the performance, relative to the
performance of Hugo Boss in Puerto Rico,
the fact is we sell our more forward fashion
component in Puerto Rico than we do in
the United States. The fact is that our productivity,
our sales per square feet, are very
competitive in Puerto Rico with the United
States. It’s a very successful presence.”
Hugo Boss has two core brands—Boss
and Hugo—which create lines for a diverse
group of clothing tastes. Boss offers four
different collections: Boss Black, Boss Orange,
Boss Green and Boss Selection. Black
includes elegant business ensembles, leisure
and evening wear, while Orange offers
casual wear fabricated with unusual materials
and colors. Green focuses on sports
wear, particularly for golfers. Selection is
the premium label, focusing more on luxurious
design and tailoring. Hugo embraces
more avant-garde styles, with a rendsetting
approach to classic shapes.
When it comes to marketing strategies,
Brashear notes Hugo Boss is paying more
attention to technology and social media
to have a larger reach of their core customer
base. The label is incorporating lots
of interactive activities, such as choosing a
Hugo Boss model and recruiting participants
through Facebook, and streaming fashion
shows. Hugo Boss launched its iPhone app
and Facebook page last year. It also introduced
its first e-commerce site in March.
“We are really engaging with a lot more
of our Hugo Boss male consumers digitally
today,” notes Brashear. “That’s also
where our targeted customer is, that 25 to
35 year-old guy who likes technology. We
are reaching out to that base of customers
through technology.”
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
A native of California, Brashear studied finance
and retail at Santa Clara University in
Santa Clara, Calif. It was there that he got his
initial taste for the clothing industry.
“[What attracted me to the retail sector]
was my college roommate. His father was a
senior vice president of a retail company. I
got to meet him over the summer, saw where
he worked, and it seemed very dynamic. [I]
just picked up the energy and it seemed like
an industry in which I could be successful,”
Brashear recalls. “Honestly, until that moment,
I had no idea what retail looked or
felt like, but from those initial exposures, it
piqued my curiosity. Then I pursued an internship
and started to work in the industry
and I’ve been in it for 30 years. I still enjoy it
and don’t consider it really work.”
Brashear spent the first three years of
his career at Macy’s West but switched to
Nordstrom after receiving an outstanding
service experience there. At Nordstrom,
Brashear worked his way up from salesperson
to merchandise manager. He then became
vice president of strategic planning
and head of Façonnable, which took him
to France and showed him the wholesale
aspect of the business. After Nordstrom
sold Façonnable in 2008, Brashear joined
Hugo Boss in January 2009.
Away from the office, Brashear is an
avid sportsman who enjoys running and
exercising. He also travels extensively and
loves to shop. Brashear also describes himself
as a very curious person who has cultivated
a myriad of interests, ranging from
architecture to food.
INDUSTRY EVOLUTION
The Hugo Boss executive has seen lots
of changes in retail through his career.
One standout change is industry consolidation,
which he calls “pretty traumatic
and significant.”
“Within the United States in particular,
we used to have a lot of regional department
stores, a lot more players. Now it’s
really a handful of large groups,” Brashear
comments. “That affects how many
choices a consumer has in terms of what
brands are available where, what prices
and different strategies these few dominant
players offer.”
From a wholesale perspective, the
most interesting change, he says, is
that brands no longer tell consumers
who they are and what product they
will offer them. Now, consumers possess
much more influence and define
what is a brand.
Changing with the times, at the speed
changes are happening, is crucial for a retail
brand’s very survival in today’s market,
the exec notes. “[There are] brands
that say ‘I have been around for 100 years
and we only do X.’ Well, if X today is no
longer desired by the consumer, you have
a choice to continue to do X until you are
out of business or you figure out a way to
be more relevant to what that customer
wants today,” Brashear reflects. “And it’s
so fast and fragile today because there’s so
much competition. There used to be businesses
that continued for five, 10 and 20
years just because of history or heritage,
but the consumer and the retail partners
today don’t have the patience for this kind
of brand or businesses any longer.”■
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